Tonka, lactose, sabro

Hullabloo,

           sadly, or perhaps maybe thankfully, the title of this post is not the ingredients list for some new-fangled modern "craaaft" beer. Although, am aware that at least one of them could impart some vociferous disgust in many. In fact, that is kind of what this post is about. My experiences of, and the reaction of others to, three recent(ish) boozey features, with remarkably different results.

Its probably best to explain, or rather perhaps to remind readers, that I like hops. I am willing to admit that they feature in all of my top ten beers of the last decade. Am not averse to any particular other ingredient by the way, but like all those that drink I have preferences.  And that of course is an understandably fine way to provide assumptions, sometimes negatively. A recent chat with a chum however caused us to discuss the reasons behind some fairly strong reactions to certain ingredients. So I have decided to look at the issue in time order, based mainly on when I heard people discussing them in places over the last four years. I genuinely hope this will be better than I am misdescribing it thus far.......

About four years ago at IMBC I came across a beer with Tonka beans in it. For some reason my recent memorial dalliances have somehow mixed that up with Tonka cars, which may be incorrect, but anyway, this was the first time I think I had come across a beer with such a potential flavouring. I do know it was brewed by Hawkshead......

I recall being surprised at the scope and depth of chocolatey vanilla flavours on offer, and this appreciation has continued in the two versions of BrewYork Tonkoko stout, another strange sounding (perhaps) chocolateblock of darkness, that is likewise vast in the range of flavours shown in the taste. I can also say that whilst out amidst the circles of persons with interest in beer ingredients, I thus far have yet to hear any discontent regarding Tonka bean's inclusion.

So. Sabro. I think this "new" hop may have been called HBC438 or similar prior to this point, however being a citrussy and fruit laden burst of wonder it obviously features in far more - and admittedly too many - beers to mention. Admittedly my potential inability to remember its pre name name, if that makes sense, is frustrating, but since its identity was found I can't say I have come across any complaints or criticisms for it's beery inclusion either .

Its interesting then that I predicted time order, because I think in fact that the oldest of the three ingredients  featured in beers of the UK is good ole "milky" (but in fact sugary) lactose. Myself and my mate discussed this based on a quite noticeable disgruntlement amongst many about lactose being not only in one particular brewer's beers, but likely it's inclusion in new styles such as milkshake IPA for example.

I know that the first time I tried lactose in a beer was when I first tried a taste of Mackeson. I imagine WF gave me a sip when I was 9 or 10, either to dissuade me from beer (based on my youth and nothing else) or to enlighten me about it (based on its taste, as well as my youth).  Am not going to suggest for a second that I liked it but suffice to say by the time I was 17 I already disregarded Mackeson from my....um...list of potential low alcohol options....

The thing is, if the amount or usage of lactose in today's excellent small and micro brewers beers was in any way similar to Mackeson I could understand dissatisfaction. But in terms of, for instance, brewers like Wander Beyond, an operation quite widely criticised for their usage of the milky product, then I would have to say there is no comparison. And am certain this would count for the higher majority of modern small brewed outputs in the UK over the last two years or so. Crucially for me, despite initial concern based on having not tried modern era beers with it in, I have to say that thus far I love Wander Beyond beers, which thus inevitably includes those with lactose in them. And that doesn't even get near to mentioning their frankly excellent artwork.

So if I can summarise the three points I have warbled aimlessly around -

1. All three ingredients are seen in excellent beers;
2. The inclusion of any or all of them does not by itself render that beer grim;
3. Lactose being in less appealing nineteen twenties/thirties brews has nothing to do with how it fits into more recent and arguably far better products....

Admittedly that means this could have been a far shorter espousal, but its always nice to share a few guessmories, fumblements and thoughtfails when offering an opinion. The end of which is to say that I look forward to continuing to see these and other new or resurrected tastes in beers as time goes on, and to decidedly enjoy them.

Cheers!

Wee Beefy    

What next for frontier brewers?

Ay oop,

     I was talking with a friend recently about the next big thing to hit real ale and beer in general. Obviously circumnavigating any assessment of where mega conglomerates and fizz packers would strike next, I focused on the smaller brewers, so often, even if not exclusively, at the forefront of beer innovation and trends.

Ten or fifteen years ago, in my experience, beers were still brown and malty. Some admittedly strayed into paler territory, in fact of course, Stones in Sheffield was always pale, but largely the output was mid brown to dark brown, plus a stout or two. The only noticeably hoppy stuff was from Burton Bridge (Empire) Freeminer (Trafalgar IPA), White Shield, and Whim, Hartington bitter, perhaps.

It turns out, unbeknown to me, and seemingly the rest of the larger percentage of British brewers at the time, that American brewers were putting huge amounts of hops into their beers years ago, and pushing the boundaries of what particular styles should be like, and experimenting with producing styles not native to their continent, or even their nearest ally, the UK.

Assuming then that we have spent the last decade in the UK catching up with the USA in terms of hop quantities especially, I consider that we are getting ever nearer to matching our Atlantic cousins in terms of bite. However, I wonder, will we continue to chase them, or pursue another countries style, or more intriguingly, forge our own way?

I mean, even the stoic world of stouts and old ales has been Yankified - for the better?

At present, where hops are concerned it seems that IKE is the start of the beginning of the end for producing equally hop forward beers. Reaching ever dizzying heights of IBU is impressive but ultimately I want to be seduced rather than hospitalised by a beer. Don't get me wrong, Steel City 666 is still a matchlessly hoppy and delicious beer. And I realise that the folks at SCB see other characteristics in their IKE touched beer other than hop induced pain.... 

 Overall though , after near on a decade of hop heavy dry bitter beers, I can see a desire for something a bit more rounded, or maybe at the opposite end of the flavour spectrum, or put another way, new. 

Of course trends have already emerged, but even then a scarcity of good knowledge of American beer styles prevents me from identifying where Black IPA and Red Hop/Rye ales originated, but its clear we are catching up, even if not quickly, rather than leading. IKE can take us to the eye watering heights of some overseas beers but it has to be in a magnificently complex beer to make it palatable.

So as for new trends, alas, the UK seems alone in striving for great flavour in sub 3% beers and doesn't seem to have a NEW specific identifably British style, or direction. Since the USA has only been brewing  the better smaller brewer and innovative output for 20 or 30 years, its surely time to set a divergent and desirably unique beer direction in the UK, so that we can match, rather than follow US beers.

And, that of course does not even have to mean matching their ascorbic, dry, bitter, Belgian IPA, smoked whatever and red ingredient output. To be really good, the UK needs to keep up with the USA whilst also defining itself, not based on what has been UK beer for a century, but what is and can be UK beer now.

In terms of future styles and developments, I personally think a combination of cask, KeyKeg and Bottle conditioned (yep, that;s right, BCA, but really (hopefully) only produced by competent bottlers) output is the future, but giving equal stall to each medium. I don't think one of the three will outstrip the other as gradually, well informed punters come to equally appreciate and part money for the benefits of each style of dispense.

What I do foresee is, whilst carrying on with hop forward ales, assertive dark brews, remarkable lagers and steadfastly traditional bitters, the UK will find its feet pushing uniquely British unfiltered beers. Unfiltered KeyKeg starts to plugs the divide between cask and KK to some extent, unfiltered cask is a revelation, if only in the early stages (Waen spring to mind, yummy!) and unfiltered bottles have been around in Europe and in some small way the UK for years. Tasting Williams Bros Grozet from the conditioning tanks years ago at Strathaven was a highlight of my drinking years I can assure you. And the clamour for unfiltered Pilsner Urquell was legendary.

But do you agree?

And if not, what do you think will be the future direction of British brewed beer, be it in cask, KeyKeg, or bottle?

Wee Beefy.