Ay up
no-one laugh but I had my "final" birthday celebration yesterday, 3 weeks after the date. An unavoidable log jam of engagements made a Monday after work nosh up a no go til yesterday, and thank goodness we waited. We were off to Little Hayfield in stunning sunshine.
The scenery was fantastic and the views clear over Moscar and the Snake Pass, and coming into Glossop we took a canny Wee Fatha short cut up a winding near single track road to come out at the top of what I think is a hill called Chunnel. The views over the Sett valley were astounding and we were soon at the pub getting beers and perusing the menu. There's a reduced menu on Mondays, but I think that's a great idea - I'd much rather they had a choice of say only 6 dishes because trade is slow than not bother, or throw food away. Me and Wee Fatha both had the pork in stilton sauce with mash and veg and Wee Keefy a rather hot chilli con carne. Prices are around the £10.00-11.00 mark.
There's only two handpumps at the Lantern Pike these days. I'm sure there used to be three but is a good few years since my last visit. The choice was Tim Taylors Landlord or Castle Rock Harvest Pale. I used to rate this beer but whether because of a changing palate and beer styles or because its wide availability means it suffers from indifferent cellar care, its become a bit of a Brother Rabbit. An ineffably disappointing "must we" of a slake.
For whatever reason, surely something to do with being well kept, it tasted rather nice. So much so that I had three pints of it with my meal. Wee Fatha then invited a debate on which other pub we should visit en route home. After much wrangling the Navigation at Buxworth came out on top.
We parked up in a much needed breeze and in front of a watery yellow horizon topped with white hemmed clouds, and popped in the Navigation to find a selection of five beers. Three of the four guests were from Abbeydale! Indeed the fourth had also been Abbeydale. Wee Fatha went for a half of sand storm which really wasn't to my liking at all when I tried it but me and Wee Keefy's pints of Philosophy were spot on. The Navigation is in a lovely setting and a decent stop off for a thirsty walker en route to say, another pub...
I mention that because Wee Fatha had "gone mad" and decided we could squeeze in the Old Hall at nearby Whitehough. We took the industrial estate road out of Chinley and soon arrived at the pub, with swifts sitting on telegraph wires surveying the comings and goings in the car park. On the bar inside a couple of beers had finished but I spotted a Buxton American Rye IPA so was in no doubt what I was having. Until that also ran out. I ended up with a rather tasty pint of Happy Valley Small and Mighty a bitter 3.8% pale beer, whereas Wee Keefy had the Blackjack First Deal (my suggestion) and Wee Fatha a rather troubling malty Cheshire Brewhouse Engine Vein.
We didn't have time to linger as we fancied a trip to the Cheshire Cheese at Hope but found it closed so plumped to go in another Old Hall, this one being in Hope. My first ever visit and a surprising range of five or six real ales. All were large regional offerings apart from one guest - Wood Street Yellowood IPA. I gamely tried a taste and it was in good condition but at the risk of incurring the wrath of 1870 recipe archivists, it surely can't be an IPA if its packed full of heavy malt that smothers any suggestion of hop?
Either way I left Wee Fatha to try that whilst I failed to note down or remember mine and Wee keefy's choices, but am sure mine was pale and was well kept. A nice surprise visit on a short but enjoyable tour of High Peak hostelries.
Cheers!
Wee Beefy.
Showing posts with label Navigation Buxworth. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Navigation Buxworth. Show all posts
Tuesday, 9 July 2013
Wednesday, 12 May 2010
Peak Forest Revisited
Hello,
Back in April I wrote about my walk from New Mills to Kettleshulme, and the pubs I encountered along the way. Since then I have done a shorter circular version of the walk with my Brother, and yesterday, a longer version with Davefromtshop to try some different pubs and different parts of the route.
We started at Strines Station and walked briskly up to Strines village and followed a track up to the canal. I had walked this section a few years ago and it was closed before Newtown because of subsidence, so I was hoping to get all the way through and see some new sites.
We made good pace and were soon inhaling the sweet aromas from the factory at Newtown, before heading through the marina and on to Buxworth, for just gone 12.00. We headed in to the Navigation, a large canal side pub at the tramway and canal interchange.
On the bar were 5 beers including Landlord, Robinson's 442 and two milds to choose from. I had Springhead drop of the black stuff and Dave had Howard Town Milltown mild. Both were excellent and in good condition, so having somewhat demolished them, we opted for a half of each others choice to finish.
We left in bright sunshine, which had accompanied us all the way so far, and followed the track at the side of the A6. This, I think, is the Peak Forest tramway trail, which comes out at the bottom of Whitehough Head lane. We followed the road up at pace, overtaking an enormous group of ramblers as we did, so that they didn't beat us to the bar at the Old hall inn.
Once again the Old Hall didn't disappoint, with 7 beers to choose from, from which we chose pints of Buxton Dark Dales, a fine tasty dark beer which genuinely seems to gave a distinctive flavour shared with their Spa bitter - perhaps its the water ?
We also had a pint each of Brass Monkey Tamarind Mild and Bollington bitter, which was a bit cloudy but tasted fantastic. Suitably sated, we headed up the hill over the A6 and started our ascent of Eccles Pike. Noticing a bank of death black clouds behind us, we sat down in the sunshine for a short sandwich stop, which we managed to have without seeing a spot if rain.
Having clawed our way up onto the road, we headed off down toward the Hanging gate, taking a new shorter route, down the side of the hall farm and coming out directly opposite the pub and the road to Combs. We nipped in the Gate for an important trip to the facilities and had two halves of Theakstons best - not a bad price at £2.50 a pint. The Hanging gate is a large roadside food pub, with a single real ale, but it seems to have been on on the occasions u have been in, and I think the pub opens all day everyday.
Heading on into Combs, it seemed unlikely we would make it before the Beehive shut, but since my initial visit I have had to readdress my opinions of the pub.
When I visited with my Brother and our friend, we had parked in Combs and walked a circular route, ending up back in the afternoon, tired and soaked and wanting a pint. No friendly lady behind the bar this time, instead the landlord. He had already barked at some people wanting to sit at one of the numerous empty tables with reserved signs on after he'd started puling our pints, at which point we started looking round for where we might sit down.
I asked him politely if there were any non-food tables we could sit at, and he grumpily snapped “they’re in there - and they're all taken“ before walking away from us. Puzzled by his lack of ability to be friendly or polite we went outside to find the tables soaked by the rain and the umbrellas inconsiderately down.
Having dried off somewhere to sit I went back in to use he loo, and spotted an empty table in the drinkers area - so grabbed my brother and our mate, but my brother was nearly finished and opted to sit in the car. We got in to find the table taken, so opted to perch on some stools, with our drinks on one of those pillar shelves, which are just big enough to pt a drink on.
Given that it was nearly 17.00, it seemed unlikely that so many parties (I think there were 7 empty tables with reservations) would be turning up just minutes after our arrival - after all, what other reason could there be to prevent us sitting at such a table? Given the mardy tone of the host we did not enquire if we could sit at a reserved table, which is a shame because it would be nice to know why we were not, allowed, since that was no doubt the case.
The tables did have place mats and knives and forks, but no cloths, so just how damaging would it be to wipe the tables once after we had sat and had our drinks? Instead, given that the landlord fronts the business and his behaviour is rightly a barometer for what the pub thinks of its none food customers, I have decided not to bother going in the Beehive again, until someone with customer service skills and retail logic takes over.
So, back to the walk this time, we did not even walk round to see if the pub was open, but took the path that cuts out the corner. This skirts the end of the reservoir, which looked very low, and then heads through field to a tunnel under the railway and out on top the lane at Spire Hollins.
After a brief 5 minute stop trying to persuade a lamb to go back under the gate it had come out from under, we were soon on long lane crossing the hill, and getting drenched in persistent fine rain.
We got to the Shady oak at about 16.00, there was Marstons Burton Bitter, Wychwood Hobgoblin, Jennings Tom Fool, and their Snecklifter, which we both had pints of whilst the landlord kindly let us dry our coats on the radiator. After a relaxing stop we headed up to Elnor lane and then followed it down into Horwich end, where you join a path following the Goyt, into Whaley bridge.
This comes out at the Cock inn, so we popped inside and found it selling 3 real ales, including the Hatters mild, so we had a pint each of that. The Cock isn't perhaps the most prepossessing pub from the outside, Robinsons new livery has started to appear throughout their estate but has not reached this pub yet. Inside is classic Robinsons decor with lots of wood and carpets ( rarely do you see stone flagged floors in a Robbies pub.... ) and comfy seats. The pub had also invested time in decorating the interior, most noticeably round the bar, which was a contrast to the appearance outside.
We then headed up to the Shepherds arms for pints of Jennings mild, and finally to the Goyt, which I have never previously been to before, in the network of tiny streets near the canal basin. No mild on here unfortunately, but a good selection of beers, including Golden Pippin, which we each had a half of. This pub retains a tiny snug next to the bar and two separate drinking areas, and seemed quite busy. Its nice to know that the pub looks to be doing OK because the nearby Navigation Inn is closed or the lease is for sale, and the Jodrell Arms has steel fence panels around the entrance.
After filling up on some chips we caught the bus to Bridgemont (actually just the next stop) and visited the Dog and Partridge, which has a range of about 6 real ales on. Another supporter of the mild magic campaign, they had Coach House gunpowder mild, which we had pints of. We also tried halves of the Wincle brewery Wibbly wobbly, which is quite an unusual find, and a cracking beer to match. The dog is another traditional pub, with a small dining room at the back, a traditional dark wood bar, and comfy seating - although be warned, try not sit in the comedy seats in front of the bar - you might never get out....
Finally, we caught the bus to Newtown and walked down to The Rock in New Mills, for a further pint of hatters mild and a chat with the locals, before wearily walking to the station for the train home. There was still time for a last pint though, as we went to the Sheffield Tap for a pint of Raven dark IPA from Thornbridge, and to try halves of their new Lumsdon and Seafortth beers.
Overall we visited 10 pubs and all but two of the served cask mild, and all maintained a range of at least 2 real ales to choose from. The route is very flexible so can be changed to incorporate other parts, such as starting at Chapel en le Frith and walking from there to Whitehough, then heading to Buxworth and following the canal to Whaley bridge, and the continuing to follow it to Bridgemont and Strines, visit Strines two pubs and the pub at Brookbottom near the station, and then following the trail along the valley back to New Mills.
Whichever route you take, there's plenty of good beer, pubs, views and routes to enjoy along the way.
Wee Beefy.
Back in April I wrote about my walk from New Mills to Kettleshulme, and the pubs I encountered along the way. Since then I have done a shorter circular version of the walk with my Brother, and yesterday, a longer version with Davefromtshop to try some different pubs and different parts of the route.
We started at Strines Station and walked briskly up to Strines village and followed a track up to the canal. I had walked this section a few years ago and it was closed before Newtown because of subsidence, so I was hoping to get all the way through and see some new sites.
We made good pace and were soon inhaling the sweet aromas from the factory at Newtown, before heading through the marina and on to Buxworth, for just gone 12.00. We headed in to the Navigation, a large canal side pub at the tramway and canal interchange.
On the bar were 5 beers including Landlord, Robinson's 442 and two milds to choose from. I had Springhead drop of the black stuff and Dave had Howard Town Milltown mild. Both were excellent and in good condition, so having somewhat demolished them, we opted for a half of each others choice to finish.
We left in bright sunshine, which had accompanied us all the way so far, and followed the track at the side of the A6. This, I think, is the Peak Forest tramway trail, which comes out at the bottom of Whitehough Head lane. We followed the road up at pace, overtaking an enormous group of ramblers as we did, so that they didn't beat us to the bar at the Old hall inn.
Once again the Old Hall didn't disappoint, with 7 beers to choose from, from which we chose pints of Buxton Dark Dales, a fine tasty dark beer which genuinely seems to gave a distinctive flavour shared with their Spa bitter - perhaps its the water ?
We also had a pint each of Brass Monkey Tamarind Mild and Bollington bitter, which was a bit cloudy but tasted fantastic. Suitably sated, we headed up the hill over the A6 and started our ascent of Eccles Pike. Noticing a bank of death black clouds behind us, we sat down in the sunshine for a short sandwich stop, which we managed to have without seeing a spot if rain.
Having clawed our way up onto the road, we headed off down toward the Hanging gate, taking a new shorter route, down the side of the hall farm and coming out directly opposite the pub and the road to Combs. We nipped in the Gate for an important trip to the facilities and had two halves of Theakstons best - not a bad price at £2.50 a pint. The Hanging gate is a large roadside food pub, with a single real ale, but it seems to have been on on the occasions u have been in, and I think the pub opens all day everyday.
Heading on into Combs, it seemed unlikely we would make it before the Beehive shut, but since my initial visit I have had to readdress my opinions of the pub.
When I visited with my Brother and our friend, we had parked in Combs and walked a circular route, ending up back in the afternoon, tired and soaked and wanting a pint. No friendly lady behind the bar this time, instead the landlord. He had already barked at some people wanting to sit at one of the numerous empty tables with reserved signs on after he'd started puling our pints, at which point we started looking round for where we might sit down.
I asked him politely if there were any non-food tables we could sit at, and he grumpily snapped “they’re in there - and they're all taken“ before walking away from us. Puzzled by his lack of ability to be friendly or polite we went outside to find the tables soaked by the rain and the umbrellas inconsiderately down.
Having dried off somewhere to sit I went back in to use he loo, and spotted an empty table in the drinkers area - so grabbed my brother and our mate, but my brother was nearly finished and opted to sit in the car. We got in to find the table taken, so opted to perch on some stools, with our drinks on one of those pillar shelves, which are just big enough to pt a drink on.
Given that it was nearly 17.00, it seemed unlikely that so many parties (I think there were 7 empty tables with reservations) would be turning up just minutes after our arrival - after all, what other reason could there be to prevent us sitting at such a table? Given the mardy tone of the host we did not enquire if we could sit at a reserved table, which is a shame because it would be nice to know why we were not, allowed, since that was no doubt the case.
The tables did have place mats and knives and forks, but no cloths, so just how damaging would it be to wipe the tables once after we had sat and had our drinks? Instead, given that the landlord fronts the business and his behaviour is rightly a barometer for what the pub thinks of its none food customers, I have decided not to bother going in the Beehive again, until someone with customer service skills and retail logic takes over.
So, back to the walk this time, we did not even walk round to see if the pub was open, but took the path that cuts out the corner. This skirts the end of the reservoir, which looked very low, and then heads through field to a tunnel under the railway and out on top the lane at Spire Hollins.
After a brief 5 minute stop trying to persuade a lamb to go back under the gate it had come out from under, we were soon on long lane crossing the hill, and getting drenched in persistent fine rain.
We got to the Shady oak at about 16.00, there was Marstons Burton Bitter, Wychwood Hobgoblin, Jennings Tom Fool, and their Snecklifter, which we both had pints of whilst the landlord kindly let us dry our coats on the radiator. After a relaxing stop we headed up to Elnor lane and then followed it down into Horwich end, where you join a path following the Goyt, into Whaley bridge.
This comes out at the Cock inn, so we popped inside and found it selling 3 real ales, including the Hatters mild, so we had a pint each of that. The Cock isn't perhaps the most prepossessing pub from the outside, Robinsons new livery has started to appear throughout their estate but has not reached this pub yet. Inside is classic Robinsons decor with lots of wood and carpets ( rarely do you see stone flagged floors in a Robbies pub.... ) and comfy seats. The pub had also invested time in decorating the interior, most noticeably round the bar, which was a contrast to the appearance outside.
We then headed up to the Shepherds arms for pints of Jennings mild, and finally to the Goyt, which I have never previously been to before, in the network of tiny streets near the canal basin. No mild on here unfortunately, but a good selection of beers, including Golden Pippin, which we each had a half of. This pub retains a tiny snug next to the bar and two separate drinking areas, and seemed quite busy. Its nice to know that the pub looks to be doing OK because the nearby Navigation Inn is closed or the lease is for sale, and the Jodrell Arms has steel fence panels around the entrance.
After filling up on some chips we caught the bus to Bridgemont (actually just the next stop) and visited the Dog and Partridge, which has a range of about 6 real ales on. Another supporter of the mild magic campaign, they had Coach House gunpowder mild, which we had pints of. We also tried halves of the Wincle brewery Wibbly wobbly, which is quite an unusual find, and a cracking beer to match. The dog is another traditional pub, with a small dining room at the back, a traditional dark wood bar, and comfy seating - although be warned, try not sit in the comedy seats in front of the bar - you might never get out....
Finally, we caught the bus to Newtown and walked down to The Rock in New Mills, for a further pint of hatters mild and a chat with the locals, before wearily walking to the station for the train home. There was still time for a last pint though, as we went to the Sheffield Tap for a pint of Raven dark IPA from Thornbridge, and to try halves of their new Lumsdon and Seafortth beers.
Overall we visited 10 pubs and all but two of the served cask mild, and all maintained a range of at least 2 real ales to choose from. The route is very flexible so can be changed to incorporate other parts, such as starting at Chapel en le Frith and walking from there to Whitehough, then heading to Buxworth and following the canal to Whaley bridge, and the continuing to follow it to Bridgemont and Strines, visit Strines two pubs and the pub at Brookbottom near the station, and then following the trail along the valley back to New Mills.
Whichever route you take, there's plenty of good beer, pubs, views and routes to enjoy along the way.
Wee Beefy.
Sunday, 11 April 2010
Big lad walks the High Peak Canal
Hello,
A week of dry warm weather had been predicted, so I booked a day off and headed out towards the Chinley/New Mills area for a yomp.
I started at New Mills, having walked up the hill towards Newtown station to join the Peak Forest canal.
I noticed en route that the North Western, a Robinsons pub near the station, had not only closed, but been turned into flats. I had been a few times when filling in time waiting for a train, they always seemed to have cask Robbie’s Mild on, and maintained a traditional interior layout of different rooms.
No doubt the loss of another old interior will have been softened by the money made on the deal, which is weird for Robinson’s, since they own a number of pubs on the National Inventory.
I walked along the canal in the sunshine, and took the left fork just before Whaley Bridge towards Buxworth basin. The Navigation wasn’t yet opened so I missed the chance of a pint,instead I headed on following the river and the canal, before heading up Jane Lane to follow the Buxworth to Chinley road.
I soon found the turning I wanted, which heads down to a large works and then very sharply uphill into Whitehough. I got to the Old Hall Inn at 10 minutes before opening, but cheekily went in since the door was ajar, and asked if it was OK to be served, which it was.
The Old Hall has, I think, 7 handpumps and a cider pump, this time dispensing JB West Sussex cider. I went for a pint of Brampton Stout first, although I it was perhaps the strongest flavoured beer on offer. Having worked up a slight thirst it didn’t seem to last long so I moved on to my next pint. This was a fantastic Marble W34, apparently the weird name reflects it being a trial brew.
This was an expectedly hoppy beer at 4.7%, and was a nice way to prepare for the slog up the hill that awaited me.
Leaving Whitehough behind, you cross the A6 and head uphill before taking a lane on the right and following a track up onto Eccles Lane, which follows the contours of the shoulder of Eccles Pike. It’s a hard slog, and the path isn’t particularly good, but the views back to Chinley are impressive.
Once on Eccles Lane I rounded the edge of the Pike and started making a gradual descent down the other side towards Tunstead Milton. I could see my next destination bathed in sunshine ahead, that being Combs reservoir (I did wonder if this was a spelling mistake, since this is clearly the spelling of “combs” which you use to comb your hair. However, the road sign says Combs, so it must be correct…. ).
Making my way down through the fields was quite easy, although not having anything unhelpful or foolish like a map meant a couple of slight detours to find stiles. The path brings you out after a really marshy walk by a stream onto Chapel en le Frith golf course. The waymark points straight across, so I walked in a straight line, noticing posts along the way, before I lost the line of the path.
A quick trawl through the brush at the edge of the course revealed a low waymarked post, and I popped through the boundary hedge and out onto the main road. Here I saw the Hanging Gate at Tunstead Milton (or Cockyard, not sure which), so nipped in for a look. There is 1 handpump dispensing Theakstons best, but given that this is ostensibly a food orientated pub, it’s better than no real ale at all, and not too bad at £2.50 a pint.
I pressed on towards Chapel next and took the right hand road into Combs. I got to the Beehive earlier than expected, just in time to order a chip butty with my beer. The Beehive is also another food orientated pub, and I have only ever been during the week, and every time it has been packed out. They must have good reputation for food – it’s certainly mentioned on their website, and is sensibly priced and comes in generous portions – but it’s probably less well known for its beer.
The beer is not cheap, but for a pub that doesn’t even allude to real ale on its website three beers is good going – Bass, Copper Dragon Golden Pippin and Three B’s brewery Honey Bee were on offer on this visit. I opted for a pint of Bass, as well as half of the Honey Bee.
I had anticipated leaving before 15.00 in order to keep up with my desired timetable, so I was pleased to be making time in leaving at 14.40. I took the lane at the left of the pub and headed towards Spire Hollins farm. I carried on up the steep hill to a wide junction, where the tarmac road turns left to a dead end and a track heads off right.
This is Long Lane, which takes the most leisurely available route over a dip in the hills to drop down into Fernilee a couple of miles later. The track is well worn and quite stony in places, but affords fantastic views back to Combs and the reservoir and Eccles Pike.
Aware of the time limit set by the last bus from Kettleshulme, I pushed on and made good time, joining Elnor Lane on the other side then cutting diagonally down to come out at the Shady Oak at Fernilee.
This is a large roadside pub which had closed down a couple of years ago, luckily its now reopened by its present owners, and doing food and good real ale - a sign outside mentioned Marston’s Burton bitter for £2.00 a pint, so I went in with high hopes. I noticed that Jennings Snecklifter, one of my favourite beers, was also on, and without pushing it ended up getting a pint of that for £2.00 as well. The landlord is intending to have one beer on at a time at £2.00, but had kindly extended the deal for me rather than have beer in the lines going off. At present the pub is open all day and offers a lunch service for groups, such as preparing a buffet in advance for walkers. Perhaps unwisely I had two pints of Snecklifter, but I knew I had to get off for the final slog.
Almost opposite I picked up a lane and then a track into the Goyt Valley, and then tried to find the quickest route up the maze of paths to get onto Ling Longs Lane, which loops between Taxal and Overton Hall Farm. Having had minor problems negotiating the farm at the Sitch where the only path which seemed to take you anywhere ended up at a locked gate, I joined the Midshires Way and walked up the steep hill to Overton.
The next part is a very, very steep scramble uphill to Taxal edge, after which you start dropping down towards some woods and can head up to Wingather Rocks. On this occasion, I turned right before the woods and to a farm on Taxal Edge. This brings you (likely panting and breathless, after the ascent) out on the road to Clayton Fold.
I headed right for what was quite a long way (longer than I remembered) before finally reaching the hamlet of Clayton Fold and heading down the lane (unsuitable for motor vehicles the sign warns, but if you have a 4X4 or an old banger it makes a nice route into kettleshulme) past the farms to come out at the impossible tight junction next to the Bulls Head.
Kettleshulme is lucky in having two pubs that sell good beer to choose from, and its proximity to the lane end makes the Bulls Head a good first choice. There were two beers available, Storm PGA from nearby Macclesfield and Weetwood Old Dog bitter. I understand the Weetwood is a regular, and given its not a beer you usually see in Sheffield I had a pint of that. The Bulls Head is a steadfastly traditional looking pub outside, with Boddingtons signage, and inside it retains 3 drinking areas in 2 rooms, and has a lot of comfortable fittings and furnishings. It was a relaxing setting to enjoy my beer, so I sat in the bar looking through the sloping doorway at the pub dog soaking up the last rays of sun poking through the windows.
I had arrived in Kettleshulme a bit earlier than planned at 5 to 6, so had time to visit the famous Swan Inn, purchased by locals after it faced closure and conversion to private residence.
There was Marston’s Bitter and a honey beer on offer, along with Wylam Gold Tankard from Northumberland, so I went for a pint of that. The second half of the bar area was filling up with diners an it looked busy, which is good to see bearing in mind its brush with extinction. It retains 3 rooms – that’s if you count the immensely tiny snug next to the end of the bar as you enter. Either way it’s a great pub, offering good beer choice, and along with the Bulls Head, makes kettleshulme an enjoyable village to visit.
All too soon I had to leave and catch the bus into Whaley Bridge, once at which I went to the White Hart on the bridge at a crossroads before Horwich End. I only stopped for a half of Old Peculier from a range of 2 or 3, not least because I was feeling a little tired by now.
I still had time for a pint in the Shepherds Arms on Old Road, a fantastic Marston’s pub also retaining its individual rooms, with a small bar room dispensing 6 real ales, mainly form the Marston’s W+D range. The guest on this occasion was Holts Sixth Sense, which I had a pint of.
I then caught the bus to New Mills Newtown and walked down to the Rock Tavern overlooking the valley and the trail to the millennium walkway. I got a well kept pint of Robinsons mild, and although not heaving, it was good to see a good mix of people in for a chat and a drink.
My final stop came after returning to Sheffield, when, for reasons that now seem a spot unclear, I went for a final drink in the Sheffield Tap, where I had halves of Thornbridge brewery Seaforth and Kipling, before sloping home for a kip and to try and ignore the burning pain in my feet.
Overall the walk is somewhere between 14 and 17 miles, and features three main hills, but is full of spectacular views, pubs to enjoy and if necessary, for instance at Tunstead Milton or Fernilee, the chance to abort early and catch the bus. All in all, a very enjoyable Cheshire and Derbyshire slog.
Next, details of a few real ale gains in my local area, and I promise, part 3 of the Wales trip.*
*Update, several years later - I never got round to part 3! Sorry about that....
A week of dry warm weather had been predicted, so I booked a day off and headed out towards the Chinley/New Mills area for a yomp.
I started at New Mills, having walked up the hill towards Newtown station to join the Peak Forest canal.
I noticed en route that the North Western, a Robinsons pub near the station, had not only closed, but been turned into flats. I had been a few times when filling in time waiting for a train, they always seemed to have cask Robbie’s Mild on, and maintained a traditional interior layout of different rooms.
No doubt the loss of another old interior will have been softened by the money made on the deal, which is weird for Robinson’s, since they own a number of pubs on the National Inventory.
I walked along the canal in the sunshine, and took the left fork just before Whaley Bridge towards Buxworth basin. The Navigation wasn’t yet opened so I missed the chance of a pint,instead I headed on following the river and the canal, before heading up Jane Lane to follow the Buxworth to Chinley road.
I soon found the turning I wanted, which heads down to a large works and then very sharply uphill into Whitehough. I got to the Old Hall Inn at 10 minutes before opening, but cheekily went in since the door was ajar, and asked if it was OK to be served, which it was.
The Old Hall has, I think, 7 handpumps and a cider pump, this time dispensing JB West Sussex cider. I went for a pint of Brampton Stout first, although I it was perhaps the strongest flavoured beer on offer. Having worked up a slight thirst it didn’t seem to last long so I moved on to my next pint. This was a fantastic Marble W34, apparently the weird name reflects it being a trial brew.
This was an expectedly hoppy beer at 4.7%, and was a nice way to prepare for the slog up the hill that awaited me.
Leaving Whitehough behind, you cross the A6 and head uphill before taking a lane on the right and following a track up onto Eccles Lane, which follows the contours of the shoulder of Eccles Pike. It’s a hard slog, and the path isn’t particularly good, but the views back to Chinley are impressive.
Once on Eccles Lane I rounded the edge of the Pike and started making a gradual descent down the other side towards Tunstead Milton. I could see my next destination bathed in sunshine ahead, that being Combs reservoir (I did wonder if this was a spelling mistake, since this is clearly the spelling of “combs” which you use to comb your hair. However, the road sign says Combs, so it must be correct…. ).
Making my way down through the fields was quite easy, although not having anything unhelpful or foolish like a map meant a couple of slight detours to find stiles. The path brings you out after a really marshy walk by a stream onto Chapel en le Frith golf course. The waymark points straight across, so I walked in a straight line, noticing posts along the way, before I lost the line of the path.
A quick trawl through the brush at the edge of the course revealed a low waymarked post, and I popped through the boundary hedge and out onto the main road. Here I saw the Hanging Gate at Tunstead Milton (or Cockyard, not sure which), so nipped in for a look. There is 1 handpump dispensing Theakstons best, but given that this is ostensibly a food orientated pub, it’s better than no real ale at all, and not too bad at £2.50 a pint.
I pressed on towards Chapel next and took the right hand road into Combs. I got to the Beehive earlier than expected, just in time to order a chip butty with my beer. The Beehive is also another food orientated pub, and I have only ever been during the week, and every time it has been packed out. They must have good reputation for food – it’s certainly mentioned on their website, and is sensibly priced and comes in generous portions – but it’s probably less well known for its beer.
The beer is not cheap, but for a pub that doesn’t even allude to real ale on its website three beers is good going – Bass, Copper Dragon Golden Pippin and Three B’s brewery Honey Bee were on offer on this visit. I opted for a pint of Bass, as well as half of the Honey Bee.
I had anticipated leaving before 15.00 in order to keep up with my desired timetable, so I was pleased to be making time in leaving at 14.40. I took the lane at the left of the pub and headed towards Spire Hollins farm. I carried on up the steep hill to a wide junction, where the tarmac road turns left to a dead end and a track heads off right.
This is Long Lane, which takes the most leisurely available route over a dip in the hills to drop down into Fernilee a couple of miles later. The track is well worn and quite stony in places, but affords fantastic views back to Combs and the reservoir and Eccles Pike.
Aware of the time limit set by the last bus from Kettleshulme, I pushed on and made good time, joining Elnor Lane on the other side then cutting diagonally down to come out at the Shady Oak at Fernilee.
This is a large roadside pub which had closed down a couple of years ago, luckily its now reopened by its present owners, and doing food and good real ale - a sign outside mentioned Marston’s Burton bitter for £2.00 a pint, so I went in with high hopes. I noticed that Jennings Snecklifter, one of my favourite beers, was also on, and without pushing it ended up getting a pint of that for £2.00 as well. The landlord is intending to have one beer on at a time at £2.00, but had kindly extended the deal for me rather than have beer in the lines going off. At present the pub is open all day and offers a lunch service for groups, such as preparing a buffet in advance for walkers. Perhaps unwisely I had two pints of Snecklifter, but I knew I had to get off for the final slog.
Almost opposite I picked up a lane and then a track into the Goyt Valley, and then tried to find the quickest route up the maze of paths to get onto Ling Longs Lane, which loops between Taxal and Overton Hall Farm. Having had minor problems negotiating the farm at the Sitch where the only path which seemed to take you anywhere ended up at a locked gate, I joined the Midshires Way and walked up the steep hill to Overton.
The next part is a very, very steep scramble uphill to Taxal edge, after which you start dropping down towards some woods and can head up to Wingather Rocks. On this occasion, I turned right before the woods and to a farm on Taxal Edge. This brings you (likely panting and breathless, after the ascent) out on the road to Clayton Fold.
I headed right for what was quite a long way (longer than I remembered) before finally reaching the hamlet of Clayton Fold and heading down the lane (unsuitable for motor vehicles the sign warns, but if you have a 4X4 or an old banger it makes a nice route into kettleshulme) past the farms to come out at the impossible tight junction next to the Bulls Head.
Kettleshulme is lucky in having two pubs that sell good beer to choose from, and its proximity to the lane end makes the Bulls Head a good first choice. There were two beers available, Storm PGA from nearby Macclesfield and Weetwood Old Dog bitter. I understand the Weetwood is a regular, and given its not a beer you usually see in Sheffield I had a pint of that. The Bulls Head is a steadfastly traditional looking pub outside, with Boddingtons signage, and inside it retains 3 drinking areas in 2 rooms, and has a lot of comfortable fittings and furnishings. It was a relaxing setting to enjoy my beer, so I sat in the bar looking through the sloping doorway at the pub dog soaking up the last rays of sun poking through the windows.
I had arrived in Kettleshulme a bit earlier than planned at 5 to 6, so had time to visit the famous Swan Inn, purchased by locals after it faced closure and conversion to private residence.
There was Marston’s Bitter and a honey beer on offer, along with Wylam Gold Tankard from Northumberland, so I went for a pint of that. The second half of the bar area was filling up with diners an it looked busy, which is good to see bearing in mind its brush with extinction. It retains 3 rooms – that’s if you count the immensely tiny snug next to the end of the bar as you enter. Either way it’s a great pub, offering good beer choice, and along with the Bulls Head, makes kettleshulme an enjoyable village to visit.
All too soon I had to leave and catch the bus into Whaley Bridge, once at which I went to the White Hart on the bridge at a crossroads before Horwich End. I only stopped for a half of Old Peculier from a range of 2 or 3, not least because I was feeling a little tired by now.
I still had time for a pint in the Shepherds Arms on Old Road, a fantastic Marston’s pub also retaining its individual rooms, with a small bar room dispensing 6 real ales, mainly form the Marston’s W+D range. The guest on this occasion was Holts Sixth Sense, which I had a pint of.
I then caught the bus to New Mills Newtown and walked down to the Rock Tavern overlooking the valley and the trail to the millennium walkway. I got a well kept pint of Robinsons mild, and although not heaving, it was good to see a good mix of people in for a chat and a drink.
My final stop came after returning to Sheffield, when, for reasons that now seem a spot unclear, I went for a final drink in the Sheffield Tap, where I had halves of Thornbridge brewery Seaforth and Kipling, before sloping home for a kip and to try and ignore the burning pain in my feet.
Overall the walk is somewhere between 14 and 17 miles, and features three main hills, but is full of spectacular views, pubs to enjoy and if necessary, for instance at Tunstead Milton or Fernilee, the chance to abort early and catch the bus. All in all, a very enjoyable Cheshire and Derbyshire slog.
Next, details of a few real ale gains in my local area, and I promise, part 3 of the Wales trip.*
*Update, several years later - I never got round to part 3! Sorry about that....
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