Now then,
here is the final part of my post trilogy about the pubs, places and scenery of the Western Isles.
We left Stornoway later than planned but WF did manage to get in the Crit for a pic which I didn't manage. Soon we were heading down towards Harris, before doing which we ended up at the Loch Eriscort Inn. This hotel, pub and restaurant is run by a bloke from Huddersfield - he sells real ale in "summer" , but no-one is sure when that is....and at other times bottles from Hebridean Brewing Co. Tash had a coffee and WF a soft drink so I shared a bottle of Hebridean Claymore with Tash,. which was o tasty and easy to drink we had another - this time the Highlander, whilst WF nipped to the loo!
We traveled down the road beyond to St Peters Port and back and then headed off to Harris. A diversion for 45 minutes to Huishnish beach was well worth t, if nothing else for the views and driving through the grounds of a castle. We were soon in Tarbet in Harris and went to the modern Isle Of Harris Inn. They had two real ales on, Deuchars and Redness from Loch Ness Brewery. Me and Tash had a pint each of that, which was £4.00 a pint. Its 4.2%. It s likely the going rate on the Islands - except, so few sell real ale.
We took teh winding coast road to the ferry and were soon on North Uist. We ate at Lochmaddy Hotel, which has two handpumps but almost always just Deuchars on - which was lovely. Alas, we went twice and ate twice and paid on card so am unsure how much real ale cost. The food was lovely.
The next day we headed out past the Westford Inn at Kirkibost. The Whatpub website has it being for sale and locals say its not been open for a year or more. When we went past, there was no longer even a sign - here is a link with a photograph. We headed down the West coast to Benbecula over a causeway and down to South Uist and eventually arrived at the Borowdale Hotel. Alas, this place also only sells real ale in the Summer so we left and headed for the Polocharr Inn at Polocharr on the coast. No real ale here either - they say they couldn't sell it and won't do so anymore, but they do sell about 8 or 9 bottles form local Scottish breweries. Sat in the cosy lounge I had a bottle of Loch Ness Brightness, whilst Tash and WF were on hot drinks.
Our trip to Eriskay was brief and took us to the pub Am Politician - this is also in the local CAMRA list of pubs selling real ale but doesn't even have a handpump! They used to sell "bottled real ale". I did not ask what, and they had none left. Tea was once again back at the Lochmaddy Hotel, where the food was excellent once more, as was the 2 or 3 pints of Deuchars I supped.
The next day we caught the ferry in bright siunshine - Friday was the best day weather wise, although cold, it was gloriously sunny thoughout. We got to Uig and visited the remains of Duntulm Castle and the waterfall at Kilt Rock and the Quiraing, a beautiful area of the island, before driving along a long single track road to Waternish and the wonderful Stein Inn. Three real ales were on plus bottled beers and Wee Fatha treated us to two shots - the last two - of Talisker 25 year old. At £25.00 a shot. He did allow himself a small taste but we drank the rest and were and remain eternally grateful. We also had two pints of Skye Gold, which was lovely, and the Cairngorm Scapa Pale.The Stein is a wonderful pub in a fantastic setting - I really hope we can return.
Our evening meal was at Seamus bar at the Sligachan Hotel. They now have their own brewery, the Cuillin Brewery, so we tried al 4 of their ales, Skye Ale, Black Face, Eagle and Pinnacle. The Pinnacle was probably the best, the others had slightly odd but not unpleasant flavours, although they were popular in the busy bar.
Our penultimate day so us travel over the Glenelg ferry down a beautiful mountain road from Breakish where we stayed. Once in Glenelg we went to see the brochs, but a need for the loo took us to the Glenelg Inn. Situated at the waters edge with a lovely view we didn't expect to find real ales - but they sold 3, Deuchars, London Pride and Caledonian XPA. Me and Tash had a pint of that and an absolutely brilliant soup and roll to put us on. The pub is well worth a visit, and must be lovely to sit outside in "Summer" as its called.
After seeing the brochs we drove over Mam Rattigan pass to join the road to Fort William and another obviatory need saw us return to the Eagle Barge at Laggan Locks. A pint and a half of the An Teallach were sampled and we were once again made to feel welcome in this tiny, floating pub. We soon reached our accommodation and they have a bar and restaurant that sells one real ale. This was Cairngorm Nessies Monster Mash, and itv was £3.40 a pint if I recall. We had pints of this with our evening meal before WF went to get a much needed early night and we went to the excellent Grog and Gruel.
The pub sells 6 real ales and three keykeg beers as well as bottles and is very popular with locals and visitors. There were two An Teallach ales on, so I had a pint of each, along with a Williams Giraffe pale ale, a Nimrod cask lager, an Orkney Red Mcgregor and another, as well as the Williams Ceasar Augustus hoppy lager on Key keg. To note, this is a 50% beer on Keykeg for £3.45 a pint. Suffice o say we had plenty! Me and Tash stayed later for many more drinks and whiskies, before returning to the West End Hotel around 01.00 for more real ale and whiskies. With hanks to the Night Porter for serving and chatting with us.
Sunday was our return home, but after a 9 hour train journey we ended up at the Sheffield Tap. We both went for the Delicious but astonishingly expensive 6.7% Magic Rock Villainous - it was fantastic, yes, but at £5.00 a pint easily the most expensive beer of the holiday....
Finally, our thanks and best wishes to Wee Fatha. Without his desire, knowledge and drive, in more than one sense, none of this holiday would have happened.
Cheers!
Wee Beefy
Showing posts with label Eagle pub Laggan Locks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Eagle pub Laggan Locks. Show all posts
Sunday, 31 May 2015
Thursday, 28 May 2015
A wander in the Western Isles
Hello,
for many years now WF has been praising, suggesting and planning a long trip away in North and lower down in Scotland. Specifically, he wanted to island hop around the Western Isles. You know, Lewis, Harris, Uist etc. After last years scare in hospital he resumed his ruminating. And me and Tash and Matt and Wee Keefy finally agreed we could go. In three posts, I will tell you how we got there, what we did whilst there, and how we got home.
The trip started well in bright sunshine - heading North for cold and wind and rain it seemed. As always, this was not neccessarily accurate - the weather was mostly fine. And even dry. Our first beer stop came in the Borders, at the Blue Bell in Annan. This is a National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors boozer whch makes it worth a visit, but also it sells 3 real ales. Deuchars is the regular with 2 guests - we had 2 and a half pints of the loallly brewed Cummertrees Pale Ale. Af ine, hoppy start to the holiday.
A trundle down country roads later and we were in Dalry. Having thought the Clachan Inn was closed we found the door further up and went in for a pint. This fabulous boozer has many old fittings and largely an unaltered layout. Two beers were on, of which me and Tash had pints of the Fyne Ales.Clachan Dubh Dark Ale and a half of Inveralmond Loch Ossian. This was a fantastic stop in a pub that seemed to be doing very well for itself - long may that continue.
Our next stop was in Maidens and a walk up to the grounds of Culzean Castle - the sight my Grandad's ashes are scattered at. You can't climb the steps up the cliff now so we ventured into Culzean Castle grounds then out on the headland to find the now much more gown over - in 20 years, promentary. WF walked the quick way back to the swan pond whilst me and Tash got lost, eventually finding WF and heading up, or not, Electric Brae and into Alloway then Ayr.
Once there we visited the Ayr Brewery Tap the Glen View Hotel for pints of their ale and a lovely meal, chicken Balmoral, stuffed with black pudding and topped with whisky sauce. Beers tried included the Ayr Scaur Doon, Leezie Lundie, Pale and Amber. Our final call of the night was down teh road from the B and B, at Geordies Byre. Here we had absolutley excellent pints of Fyne Ales Jarl at £3.00 a pint. We both enjoyed our visit to Geordies - I may have only been there 4 or 5 times in 20 years nut nothing has changed in this excellent small local boozer. A fantastic finish to an excellent first day.
The next day we headed out over Glennifer Braes and over towards Dumbarton, Gairloch Head and our first stop was the Village Inn at Arrochar. In stunning sunshine in a prime location next to the loch this is a popular restaurant but with a prominent bar on the left. I had a pint of Fyne Avalanche and Tash a pint of Houston Warlock with WF on soft drink. Soon we would be entering the huge tors and ben's of the High;ands....
Soon enough we were on Rannoch Moor and stopped in the Kings House Hotel. The bar is hidden round the back but is popular with walkers and car travelling tourists. After Tash had fed the deer we went in for a snack and pints of the excellent Trade Winds IPA from Cairngorm. Another excellent spot for a decent [pint of real ale.
We soon arrived in Fort William and headed for what we thought was a barge on Neptune's staircase. No sign was seen and we asked WF to check but he couldn't. A long walk and chance meeting with a Welsh boater made it clear the barge was 10 miles further up, and despite getting lost and turning towards our stopping place we ended up at Laggan Locks for the Eagle pub. On a barge. Sumptuously set out, with four real ales, the obvious attraction was the An Teallach Beinn Dearg ale at 3.8%. Not much over £3.00 a pint this delicious brew was really easy to sup but packed with flavours of soft Scottish malt and a subtle hop character. Topped off with a shot each of Kilchoman for me and Tash this was a fantastic stop.
Our final destination was where we stayed, a the Benleva Hotel at Drumnadrochit, Loch Ness. The Loch Ness brewery tap serves 5 or 6 real ales including their own, and lovely food - we all opte for the haggis neeps and tattoes which was served in massive portions. To be fair, my favourite beer was the Windswept APA, but the Loch Ness Redness and Lightness were also worth a try, as was the mild.
More to follow soon on getting to and being on Lewis, Harris and beyond.
Cheers!
Wee Beefy
for many years now WF has been praising, suggesting and planning a long trip away in North and lower down in Scotland. Specifically, he wanted to island hop around the Western Isles. You know, Lewis, Harris, Uist etc. After last years scare in hospital he resumed his ruminating. And me and Tash and Matt and Wee Keefy finally agreed we could go. In three posts, I will tell you how we got there, what we did whilst there, and how we got home.
The trip started well in bright sunshine - heading North for cold and wind and rain it seemed. As always, this was not neccessarily accurate - the weather was mostly fine. And even dry. Our first beer stop came in the Borders, at the Blue Bell in Annan. This is a National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors boozer whch makes it worth a visit, but also it sells 3 real ales. Deuchars is the regular with 2 guests - we had 2 and a half pints of the loallly brewed Cummertrees Pale Ale. Af ine, hoppy start to the holiday.
A trundle down country roads later and we were in Dalry. Having thought the Clachan Inn was closed we found the door further up and went in for a pint. This fabulous boozer has many old fittings and largely an unaltered layout. Two beers were on, of which me and Tash had pints of the Fyne Ales.Clachan Dubh Dark Ale and a half of Inveralmond Loch Ossian. This was a fantastic stop in a pub that seemed to be doing very well for itself - long may that continue.
Our next stop was in Maidens and a walk up to the grounds of Culzean Castle - the sight my Grandad's ashes are scattered at. You can't climb the steps up the cliff now so we ventured into Culzean Castle grounds then out on the headland to find the now much more gown over - in 20 years, promentary. WF walked the quick way back to the swan pond whilst me and Tash got lost, eventually finding WF and heading up, or not, Electric Brae and into Alloway then Ayr.
Once there we visited the Ayr Brewery Tap the Glen View Hotel for pints of their ale and a lovely meal, chicken Balmoral, stuffed with black pudding and topped with whisky sauce. Beers tried included the Ayr Scaur Doon, Leezie Lundie, Pale and Amber. Our final call of the night was down teh road from the B and B, at Geordies Byre. Here we had absolutley excellent pints of Fyne Ales Jarl at £3.00 a pint. We both enjoyed our visit to Geordies - I may have only been there 4 or 5 times in 20 years nut nothing has changed in this excellent small local boozer. A fantastic finish to an excellent first day.
The next day we headed out over Glennifer Braes and over towards Dumbarton, Gairloch Head and our first stop was the Village Inn at Arrochar. In stunning sunshine in a prime location next to the loch this is a popular restaurant but with a prominent bar on the left. I had a pint of Fyne Avalanche and Tash a pint of Houston Warlock with WF on soft drink. Soon we would be entering the huge tors and ben's of the High;ands....
Soon enough we were on Rannoch Moor and stopped in the Kings House Hotel. The bar is hidden round the back but is popular with walkers and car travelling tourists. After Tash had fed the deer we went in for a snack and pints of the excellent Trade Winds IPA from Cairngorm. Another excellent spot for a decent [pint of real ale.
We soon arrived in Fort William and headed for what we thought was a barge on Neptune's staircase. No sign was seen and we asked WF to check but he couldn't. A long walk and chance meeting with a Welsh boater made it clear the barge was 10 miles further up, and despite getting lost and turning towards our stopping place we ended up at Laggan Locks for the Eagle pub. On a barge. Sumptuously set out, with four real ales, the obvious attraction was the An Teallach Beinn Dearg ale at 3.8%. Not much over £3.00 a pint this delicious brew was really easy to sup but packed with flavours of soft Scottish malt and a subtle hop character. Topped off with a shot each of Kilchoman for me and Tash this was a fantastic stop.
Our final destination was where we stayed, a the Benleva Hotel at Drumnadrochit, Loch Ness. The Loch Ness brewery tap serves 5 or 6 real ales including their own, and lovely food - we all opte for the haggis neeps and tattoes which was served in massive portions. To be fair, my favourite beer was the Windswept APA, but the Loch Ness Redness and Lightness were also worth a try, as was the mild.
More to follow soon on getting to and being on Lewis, Harris and beyond.
Cheers!
Wee Beefy
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