The Crask Inn, Crask. near Lairg, Sutherl;and, North East Scotland

 Evening Readers - assuming there are any of you left......before I start I should add a quick caveat. So I know that even my my own cacky handed mismanagement of my own out put that my first blog post this year taking place in November 2023 is somewhat taking the piss. And am sorry about that. Apart from a recent op and a few holidays there really aren't any reasosn let alone excuses - its just that I haven't. Its nothing personal I promise.

So back in the 1990s my central heating bust in late November and for a number of reasons we didn#'t manage to get it fixed pre Chrimbo. We all wnt home at the same and my mate came back into the freezinjg house for one night before coming home. I returned on what I think was the 28th and found a frozen glass of water onh the side. It was so cold when I went to bed that night I had to turn the TV round so its back faced me to get heat and I slep fully clothed in a sleepoing bag covered in blankets. That morning haing turned it back round I saw footage taken outside the Crask Inn showing at what I thought was minus 36 making it the coldest place in the UK ever. Sadly the met office have a weather station aat possibly Tallus a few miles away which measured it lower, but I never forgot about this. And then my life happened.

A few years ago I jokingly asked WK if he fancied driving me the 509 miles to Crask - surprisingly he seemed interested but insusted he definitely wasn't promising. I started following - and still do - the Crask Inn on Faceache. I was quite shocked to hear that the pub was to be sold to the Scotttish Episcopa;ian church abd told WK. On my birthday he said if I could get the first week in July off he would take us. I did. And he did.

We stayed the firsdt night in Glasgow - starting our drinks at the Old Toll Bar, a large N.I pub about a mile away from our hotel. Years ago they sold one or two cask beers - this has thankfully been replaced by at least 6 Craft Kegs. I know both WK and I got a pint of Black Isle each and possibly also a pint of Camper Van but there were plenty of crackers in the range!

After we made the lengthy trek through the pissing rain to the fabullous bon Accord where WK got a pint of sunshine on Keith which may be Spey Valley and I know I got the same and another Spey Valley. Was last in the Bon Accord in 2009 and it didn't seem to have changed much!

Next to last was my first visit to the Pot Still - WF and Frank Glasgow (as I call him ) both recommended and we may have been on Loch Lomond - am sadly not in a position right now to confirm if either of us tried any of the ridiculous range os shiskeys.

Our dinal stop was little further along the road to the Shilling Brewery Tap. Along with a few of their own they also sold about 6 kegs and 12 cans of the fabulous Overtone. Me and WK shared truly fantastic hagguis pizzas and it was a short walk back to the hotel.

The next day it was a short wander round Glasgow before we got off to find the motorway and were soon travelling up the coast on the A9 - just 256 miles or similar to Crask. An early chat with new manager Shane presented us we thought with mints and dough Balls at half 6 - and after two Waterfall stops and a trundle down a lengthy single track A Road we finally arrived about 18000. Soon into our included evening meal it turned out that mints was instead mince - and bloody nice it was too - and we got chatting to a few other guests and afterwards made it into the bar.

Am not going to pretend that I wasnt disappointed upon discovering they no longer stocked Black Isle Beers on their two keg lines - Shane told us that they had discovered it was difficult to control their beers and so they now only stocked Isle of Skye beers - a pint of Gold and a pint of Dark for me ans WK. They also appeared to stock their full range of cans and bottles, which was a pleasant surprise.

Later Shane asked me why had visited - so I told him everything - including my horror at its upcoming sale to the church. shane pointed out it had already been sold and was already a church - a fact I was surprised at = ni his defence Shane asked if I had noticed any churchiness = I had to admit I hadn't.

we stayed for three nights in all - the first full day a trip to the Casser;ey falls followed by a nearer waterfall and finished by a wander up to Tongue. The Highlands guide said both of the two premises in Toungue sold real ale but the hotel had been sold and served keg in the bar - I opted for a pint of Black Isle at about 3.7% and something like £8 a pint before heading to he Ben Loyal - here I was told the handpumps hadn't been able to stand the recent high temperatures so they had stopped selling real ale. Its a shame because both served a good number of kegs but sadly not cask from the past

After a further excellent tea we once again spent a couple of hours back in the Crask Inn bar where we chatted to Shane's wife - sadly both myself and WK are unable to recall her name but enjoyed chatting to her none the less. Shane and his family had moved about 6 months ago to Sutherland from Alabamha - his wife said she loved the haggis and black and white pudding and venison and also that the only difference between there and here was that 15 degrees was colder - I said we would speak to her next year after her first highland winter!

The next day we drove don to Arrochar where we stopped in a large hotel hoping to visit the Village Inn. Sadly it was not possible to eat there so we ate at the hotel and then walked down to the Village Inn for one of about 4 real ales - mostly Fyne Ales. The Village Inn was a regular stop off for WF so even thopugh we could not eat there it was still noce to get back.

Next we headed - actually am not sure when - tp the Grog and Gruel in Fort William - this may well have been before Glencoe? A couple for me in there were very nice either way. We also stopped off in Ayr at the Chestnuts Hotel - not least to shelter from the rain - and I enjoyed a pint before me and WK returned to Culzean Castle to see the spot where WF and Grandad's ashes are scattered, before we ended up in Dumfries. On my last visit had visited the New Bazaar at the side of the river - now sadly closed.

We started at the Douglas Arms where they had a fabulous range of cask on and Drygate Gladeye IPA and others on keg. We then poped out for tea before finishing our night in the fantastic Riverside Tap, a bar selling about 8 keg ales including at least two Tempest and possible two Overtone - one of which was a fantastic DIPA!

Overall it was obviously very tiring for WK so am very much in appreciation of uis efforts and on every level, I have to say I enjoyed every where we visited and especially the Crask Inn at Crask!

Cheers

Wee Beefy 

Scotland 2017 - Tyndrum, Oban, Lerags, Barra and the Uists

Hello,

      this month we went back - we being myself and Wee Fatha, to the West coast of Scotland, an area I hail from, and one to which we wanted to return. WF had ventured away in May 2017 and to be fair to him that was too early after his heart attack - he had said he never wanted to go to Scotland again. I knew this was not true. Two weeks ago that was proven.

Our first stop was in Moffat  at the Stag. Having previously been at the Star and been underwhelmed with the choice of real ale, we found two real ales at the Stag, a Greedy King standard and Inveralmond Lia Fail. A half of each was had, with me finishing most of both. WF was restricted to a half a day or similar so usually only had a few sups of each or a soft drink.

Next up after numerous traffic jams we ended up at the Village Inn at Arrochar, with five real ales including Fallen Just the ticket pale ale and Fyne Avalanche and Jarl. One of the Fallen alas ran out before I tried it but the range and setting at this pub is always excellent.

We didn't stop again until we finally reached Tyndrum to stay in a huge hotel full of coach parties. Food and Caledonian Highlander or similar was at the Tyndrum Inn. Despite its somewhat remote location Tyndrum is an incredibly busy place. The food was spot on, as was the beer. I even went to the hotel bar on our return for a half a Belhaven Saltire lager. It was as good as you would expect.

The next day we undertook the short drive to Oban and having booked in at the B and B we drove through the rain to Ellenabaich on Seil Island. The Oystercatcher was open so we went in and had pints of a Fyne ales red and their excellent summer skies - perhaps the most ironically named beer of the trip, but one of the best. We then caught the small ferry to Easdale and went for a wander and a few bottles in the Puffer Inn. Matt said they used to sell real ales on handpump but am not sure where on the tiny bar, but the range of bottles was excellent. Lawless Village IPA, Orkney Norseman Pale and Colonsay IPA were all sampled, along with lovely food.

Later that evening we went to the Barn at Lerags, down a resurfaced winding track from the main road. Two beers on here if I recall, and I had about three pints of the Orkney corncrake - unless it was the Fyne ales beer.  Alas the name escapes me. Our final stop on day two was in the Corrywreckan Wetherspoons in Oban where I had two Oban Bay brewery beers. They were OK, but not my style, but at least there are usually some on in this pub.

Day three we were meant to be going to Barra - but WF, exhausted by the drive on the first day, was really not very well. The kind owner of the Inverasdale bed and breakfast let WF go back to bed and put her guest up in her friends house next door, allowing WF some sleep and myself chance to explore Oban.

I started in the Oban Inn on a pint of Fyne Jarl. This is a beautiful old pub with an upstairs dining room selling three Fyne Real ales, Jarl, Highlander and Vital Spark. All three were tried and found to be on top form, as was the food I had there later on. The barman seemed interested to know what I thought and recommended two further stops selling Fyne ales in the town. My next stopping point was the Lorne on Stevenson Street.

Two Fyne Ales on cask here, Jarl and Highlander, but its nice to get to try the same beer in different pubs. I only stopped or a quick pint but the food looked and smelled delicious. The penultimate new stop took some finding - having forgotten its name I had to pop back in the Oban to ask, and then wandered  aimlessly for 30 minutes before getting specific directions from a local.

Marky Dans is a cellar bar down some steps underneath accommodation near the Gaelic centre. They do food all day and sell one real ale in the quirkily decorated bar. Here the Fyne Summer Skies pale was on excellent form. The music was good for the most part as well, and this seems like the sort of place I would like to go back to an a January Monday afternoon - potentially to have the whole place to myself.

Having checked on WF and found improvement, I returned to the Oban Inn twice, the later time chatting to fellow tourists from West Kirby and Helensborough, whose names I can almost remember, Karen and a tall man called Chris or Tom. Or John. Um..... several pints of Jarl were once again enjoyed and I got back late for our final snooze before the ferry.

As forewarned, the ferry journey, 5 and half hours long, can get quite rough once you leave the minch. I had already eaten crisps and a bottle of Fyne Avalanche before eating a curry as we sailed past Mull. As a direct result of the absurd rollercoaster journey I ended up wearing it. I only dared leave the table to get back in the var. Once I had removed all traces of vomit from my arms and facial hair, we met our accommodation owner Mari and set about trying to find food. The Castlebay Hotel was booked but we got a table at the Craigard Hotel. Caledonian Coast to Coast pale on keg was a decent sup, and the hand dived scallops in Grand Marnier creme sauce were exceptional. Good to see a poster in the dining room saying you are more than welcome to breastfeed in here - quite why people object to such a natural process is beyond me.

The next day we spent time travelling round Vatersay, and stopped at the Castlebay Hotel for a bottle of Skye Gold, and also a taste of the Barra gin - distilled in London using Barra ingredients its being sold to raise the funds to build a distillery on Barra.

A short ferry hop to Eriskay followed before we stopped in the Borrodale Hote in South Uist. No real ale, but two bottles of Hebridean, Clansman, and Beserker. Both off, had the first replaced but drank the second anyway. Probably should have gone to Polochar....

That night we ate at the Lochmaddy Hotel in Lochmaddy and they had St Kilda Challenge Ale on at 3.5% on cask from an unnamed brewery. I din't ask who it was as the beer was a little underwhelming, but it was our first cask since Oban. Afterwards we went to the Westford Inn at Clacdach Kirkibost on North Uist.

I had wanted to come here for so long, so tried hard to manage my expectations. I think the pub is incredibly popular and very busy, and the hassled tones of the lady on the phone was disappointing if understandable. On getting in we had pints of Skye Tarasgeir and Red, half a Skye Gold as well as more Barra gin for me. The Tarasgeir was not quite what I expected, but it had a very distinct flavour, the red was well kept, as was the Gold, indeed all were. The pub was still busy when we arrived at 21.00 and am sure the food is lovely, but we couldn't stay longer long due to an extra early start the next day. More details of our trip to Lewis Ullapool and beyond soon.

Cheers!

Wee Beefy

A wander in the Western Isles

Hello,

           for many years now WF has been praising, suggesting and planning a long trip away in North and lower down in Scotland. Specifically, he wanted to island hop around the Western Isles. You know, Lewis, Harris, Uist etc. After last years scare in hospital he resumed his ruminating. And me and Tash and Matt and Wee Keefy finally agreed we could go. In three posts, I will tell you how we got there, what we did whilst there, and how we got home.

The trip started well in bright sunshine - heading North for cold and wind and rain it seemed. As always, this was not neccessarily accurate - the weather was mostly fine. And even dry. Our first beer stop came in the Borders, at the Blue Bell in Annan. This is a National Inventory of Historic Pub Interiors boozer whch makes it worth a visit, but also it sells 3 real ales. Deuchars is the regular with 2 guests - we had 2 and a half pints of the loallly brewed Cummertrees Pale Ale. Af ine, hoppy start to the holiday.

A trundle down country roads later and we were in Dalry. Having thought the Clachan Inn was closed we found the door further up and went in for a pint. This fabulous boozer has many old fittings and largely an unaltered layout. Two beers were on, of which me and Tash had pints of the Fyne Ales.Clachan Dubh Dark Ale and a half of Inveralmond Loch Ossian. This was a fantastic stop in a pub that seemed to be doing very well for itself - long may that continue.

Our next stop was in Maidens and a walk up to the grounds of Culzean Castle - the sight my Grandad's ashes are scattered at. You can't climb the steps up the cliff now so we ventured into Culzean Castle grounds then out on the headland to find the now much more gown over - in 20 years, promentary. WF walked the quick way back to the swan pond whilst me and Tash got lost, eventually finding WF and heading up, or not, Electric Brae and into Alloway then Ayr.

Once there we visited the Ayr Brewery Tap the Glen View Hotel for pints of their ale and a lovely meal, chicken Balmoral, stuffed with black pudding and topped with whisky sauce. Beers tried included the Ayr Scaur Doon, Leezie Lundie, Pale and Amber. Our final call of the night was down teh road from the B and B, at Geordies Byre. Here we had absolutley excellent pints of Fyne Ales Jarl at £3.00 a pint. We both enjoyed our visit to Geordies - I may have only been there 4 or 5 times in 20 years nut nothing has changed in this excellent small local boozer. A fantastic finish to an excellent first day.

The next day we headed out over Glennifer Braes and over towards Dumbarton, Gairloch Head and our first stop was the Village Inn at Arrochar. In stunning sunshine in a prime location next to the loch this is a popular restaurant but with a prominent bar on the left. I had a pint of Fyne Avalanche and Tash a pint of Houston Warlock with WF on soft drink. Soon we would be entering the huge tors and ben's of the High;ands....

Soon enough we were on Rannoch Moor and stopped in the Kings House Hotel. The bar is hidden round the back but is popular with walkers and car travelling tourists. After Tash had fed the deer we went in for a snack and pints of the excellent Trade Winds IPA from Cairngorm. Another excellent spot for a decent [pint of real ale.

We soon arrived in Fort William and headed for what we thought was a barge on Neptune's staircase. No sign was seen and we asked WF to check but he couldn't. A long walk and chance meeting with a Welsh boater made it clear the barge was 10 miles further up, and despite getting lost and turning towards our stopping place we ended up at Laggan Locks for the Eagle pub. On a barge. Sumptuously set out, with four real ales, the obvious attraction was the An Teallach Beinn Dearg ale at 3.8%. Not much over £3.00 a pint this delicious brew was really easy to sup but packed with flavours of soft Scottish malt and a subtle hop character. Topped off with a shot each of Kilchoman for me and Tash this was a fantastic stop.

Our final destination was where we stayed, a the Benleva Hotel at Drumnadrochit, Loch Ness. The Loch Ness brewery tap serves 5 or 6 real ales including their own, and lovely food - we all opte for the haggis neeps and tattoes which was served in massive portions. To be fair, my favourite beer was the Windswept APA, but the Loch Ness Redness and Lightness were also worth a try, as was the mild.

More to follow soon on getting to and being on Lewis, Harris and beyond.

Cheers!

Wee Beefy