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Tuesday, 21 January 2020

Tonka, lactose, sabro

Hullabloo,

           sadly, or perhaps maybe thankfully, the title of this post is not the ingredients list for some new-fangled modern "craaaft" beer. Although, am aware that at least one of them could impart some vociferous disgust in many. In fact, that is kind of what this post is about. My experiences of, and the reaction of others to, three recent(ish) boozey features, with remarkably different results.

Its probably best to explain, or rather perhaps to remind readers, that I like hops. I am willing to admit that they feature in all of my top ten beers of the last decade. Am not averse to any particular other ingredient by the way, but like all those that drink I have preferences.  And that of course is an understandably fine way to provide assumptions, sometimes negatively. A recent chat with a chum however caused us to discuss the reasons behind some fairly strong reactions to certain ingredients. So I have decided to look at the issue in time order, based mainly on when I heard people discussing them in places over the last four years. I genuinely hope this will be better than I am misdescribing it thus far.......

About four years ago at IMBC I came across a beer with Tonka beans in it. For some reason my recent memorial dalliances have somehow mixed that up with Tonka cars, which may be incorrect, but anyway, this was the first time I think I had come across a beer with such a potential flavouring. I do know it was brewed by Hawkshead......

I recall being surprised at the scope and depth of chocolatey vanilla flavours on offer, and this appreciation has continued in the two versions of BrewYork Tonkoko stout, another strange sounding (perhaps) chocolateblock of darkness, that is likewise vast in the range of flavours shown in the taste. I can also say that whilst out amidst the circles of persons with interest in beer ingredients, I thus far have yet to hear any discontent regarding Tonka bean's inclusion.

So. Sabro. I think this "new" hop may have been called HBC438 or similar prior to this point, however being a citrussy and fruit laden burst of wonder it obviously features in far more - and admittedly too many - beers to mention. Admittedly my potential inability to remember its pre name name, if that makes sense, is frustrating, but since its identity was found I can't say I have come across any complaints or criticisms for it's beery inclusion either .

Its interesting then that I predicted time order, because I think in fact that the oldest of the three ingredients  featured in beers of the UK is good ole "milky" (but in fact sugary) lactose. Myself and my mate discussed this based on a quite noticeable disgruntlement amongst many about lactose being not only in one particular brewer's beers, but likely it's inclusion in new styles such as milkshake IPA for example.

I know that the first time I tried lactose in a beer was when I first tried a taste of Mackeson. I imagine WF gave me a sip when I was 9 or 10, either to dissuade me from beer (based on my youth and nothing else) or to enlighten me about it (based on its taste, as well as my youth).  Am not going to suggest for a second that I liked it but suffice to say by the time I was 17 I already disregarded Mackeson from my....um...list of potential low alcohol options....

The thing is, if the amount or usage of lactose in today's excellent small and micro brewers beers was in any way similar to Mackeson I could understand dissatisfaction. But in terms of, for instance, brewers like Wander Beyond, an operation quite widely criticised for their usage of the milky product, then I would have to say there is no comparison. And am certain this would count for the higher majority of modern small brewed outputs in the UK over the last two years or so. Crucially for me, despite initial concern based on having not tried modern era beers with it in, I have to say that thus far I love Wander Beyond beers, which thus inevitably includes those with lactose in them. And that doesn't even get near to mentioning their frankly excellent artwork.

So if I can summarise the three points I have warbled aimlessly around -

1. All three ingredients are seen in excellent beers;
2. The inclusion of any or all of them does not by itself render that beer grim;
3. Lactose being in less appealing nineteen twenties/thirties brews has nothing to do with how it fits into more recent and arguably far better products....

Admittedly that means this could have been a far shorter espousal, but its always nice to share a few guessmories, fumblements and thoughtfails when offering an opinion. The end of which is to say that I look forward to continuing to see these and other new or resurrected tastes in beers as time goes on, and to decidedly enjoy them.

Cheers!

Wee Beefy    

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